Trouser waistband construction



April 17, 1951 l. l. LEVINE TRoUsER WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION Filed April l1 INVENTOR.

ATTORNEYS Patented pr. 17, 1951 TROUSER WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION Irving I. Levine, Columbus, Ohio, assignor to The Hercules Trouser Company, Columbus, Ohio Application April 11, 1947, Serial No. 7 10,867

8 Claims.

This invention relates to new fand useful improvements in trouser construction.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved construction in the waistband Zone of the top of trousers having a notched back which facilitates manufacture by permitting substantially complete manipulation of the waistband prior to joining of the trousers. By notched back is meant the back of trousers so constructed as to leave a notch in the top of the waistband Zone of the trousers wherein the bottom of the notch crosses the terminal point of the longitudinal back seam of the trousers.

Another object is to provide an improved construction in the waistband Zone of trousershaving a notched back which willpermit rapid and inexpensive alteration with a minimum of handling when it is desired to alter the size of the waistline by reducing the'handling required in such an altering operation to a few simple manipulations.

Another object is to provide an improved construction in the waistband zone of trousers having a notched back which will permit alteration of the size of the waistline `without at the same time disturbing the finished appearance of the garment and avoid complicated tailoring in restoring the stitch-finishing of the garment.

Another object is to provide an improved construction in the waistband zone of trousers in o;

which the let-out extension terminates below the top margin of the trousers so that the top of the trousers has a iinished appearance and is free of bulkiness.

Other objects of this invention will become obvious from the drawings and the following description.

The top construction of trousers finished with a notched back is a difficult, tedious and timeconsuming operation when made by the methods hitherto practiced since the machine operators are required to handle the whole pair of trousers after the trousers have been joined. This makes manipulation awkward and requires highly skilled operators. Furthermore, the entire back construction, including a portion of the attached waistband lining, .must be ripped out when the waistline of trousers made according to the old method is to be altered. Such alterations are dii'icult, time-consuming and require skilled workmanship. It is frequently difficult to obtain thread which will exactly match the original thread when the ripped top-stitching is replaced.y

After the alterations are completed the trousers have lost their original finished appearance.

' the trousers;

When trousers having a notched back are made according to my invention, the trousers are lnot joined until `after the waistband and the edges of the V-shaped notch are finished. This simplies both manufacture and alteration. Trousers made according to my method retain their original finished appearance after alteration and do not require complicated tailoring.

Other objects and advantages of my invention will become evident from the drawings and the following description, in whichlike reference numerals indicate like parts throughout.

In the drawings: Y

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the waistband zone of trousers made according to my invention;

Figure 2 is a plan view of portion of a trouser showing one of the steps in the manufacture of the trousers. A portion is cut away to show in detail the attachment of the waistband;

'Figure 3 is a vertical section on lines 3-3 of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is a plan view of a portion of a trouser showing a different step in the manufacture of Figure 5 is a perspective view showing th method of joining the trousers;

Figure 6 is a plan view showing the nished top in relation to the back seam of the trousers;

Figure '7 is a vertical section on lines 1-1 of Figure 4; and

Figure 8 is a plan view showing the waistband in relation to the back seam after alteration to increase the size of the waistline.

In making a pair of trousers yaccording to my invention, the trouser sections A and B are made up in the usual way and are provided with waistbandportions C and D, respectively, which are sewed to the trouser sections separately before the trousers are joined, fas shown in Figures 2 and 3. The waistband, which consists of the usual strips of suitable lining material l and 2 joined by stitching 3, is properly sewed to the top portion 4 of each trouser by stitching 5. This preliminary stepin the attachment of the waistband is standard procedure and constitutes no part of `my invention.

the top margin 6 of the trouser so that the waistband lies flat against the right side R of .the

trouser materialas shown in Figures 2 and 3.

Both theY waistband and the trousersections are provided in their upper rear corners with similar` y substantially right'angled recesses" the edges of which are contiguously aligned to form recess l. Edge 8 of the said recess is substantially vertical. Bottom edge 9 of the recess is substantially transverse and defines the width of the let-out extension. This leaves a tab I9 of waistband material which overlies the upper part of the portion of trouser material forming the letout extension at the back. The waistband and trouser material are attached together by stitching i I adjacent to the periphery of recess 1 and lateral margin I@ of the trouser section. The lower transverse edge of the waistband, at this stage, is left free of the trouser material.

The entire waistband section is then inverted by folding it up and over the line of stitching so that the waistband lies against the opposite or inner face L of the trouser material as shown in Figures 4 and 7 and is secured to the trouser section by top stitching I2 adjacent to the lower edge of the waistband. The waistband section is now completely finished without requiring the awkward and difficult handling of joined trousers. By completing the construction of the waistband before joining the trouser sections, the task of the operation is greatly simplified with a con* comitant saving of a considerable amount of time. Since the trousers are top stitched in halves, it is not necessary for the top-stitchers to handle the entire pair of trousers. This shortens the length of time required by this operation and improves the quality of the finished trousers.

The trouser sections with the completed waistbands are joined at the back as shown in Figure 5. The trouser sections are placed together so that recesses l are flush and the back stitching is put in. The line of longitudinal back stitching I3, which is spaced inwardly of lateral margins IB a sufficient distance to permit of alterations where it is desired to increase the size of the waistline and the seat, terminates at a point I4 def-ined by the meeting of edges 8 and 9 of recess 1. This leaves the vertical edges 8 of the recesses free, forming a substantially V-shaped notch l5 in the top of the waistband zone which is medially positioned in the back of the joined trousers and which terminates within the waistband zone. Preferably the position of the longitudinal back stitching i3 defines the minimum size of the waistline. Let-out extensions I which are formed by the line of stitching I3 and include on their upper parts the tabs IS of the waistband are doubled back flat and secured by transverse stitching I against the waistband as shown in Figures l and 6. This stitching preferably coincides with the row of top stitching I2 that defines the lower edge of the waistband zone and is therefore invisible.

By providing the trouser sections with recesses as described in the upper rear corners, the let-out extensions are always positioned some distance below the top margin of the trousers so that the waistline is always smooth and unmarred by the bulkiness caused by folding back the let-out extension.

When it is desired to alter the garment so as to let out the waistline, it is merely necessary to rip the stitching Il which secures the doubled back extensions and the back stitching I3. The waistband stitching, including the top stitching, is not disturbed since there is no need to rip the waistband from the trouser material. The back stitching is replaced in a position determined by the required measurements, exteriorly of the position of the original back stitching. The extensions deiined by the new line of back stitching are doubled back and secured as before.

Figure 8 shows the back of the waistline after it is let out. Since the newly sewed back stitching is positioned exteriorly of the original back stitching, it will terminate at edge 9 of the recess at a point intermediate of the ends of said edge 9 and the original V-shaped notch I5 will now have a .substantially U-shape, as shown at I8.

Trousers made by the aforedescribed method retain their original finished appearance and have no raw edges after alteration of the waistline since there is no need to disturb the waistband construction in any way. Since the top stitching is not opened, it is not necessary to match thread to replace a ripped-out portion. The trousers may be altered several .times without showing signs of handling.

The garment requires a minimum of handling during the alteration since it is merely necessary to open the few stitches securing the doubledback seam extensions and the back stitching and then replace the same according to the desired measurements. So simple is the alteration procedure that it can be quickly and inexpensively accomplished without requiring an operator with highly specialized skills.

Although I have described a preferred embodiment of my invention, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the type of waistband used and the method of applying it to the trouser material may be varied as desired. This is also true when trousers have no waistband or as it is called in the trade, French waistband, or continuous waistband. The shape of the recess which defines the back let-out extension may also be varied.

What I claim is:

l. The method of constructing trousers of the type which includes right and left leg portions having their juxtaposed rear longitudinal margins united in a seam, comprising notching the upper rear corners of the face material of each leg portion within the waistband Zone to form similar recesses, each extending a substantial distance depthwise from the upper edge of said face material and widthwise a substantial distance from the rear edge of said face material said waist band zone constituting the upper part of said leg portion, securing a liner tothe inner side of the face material of each leg portion in the waistband zone, co-extensive throughout its area with said Zone, stitch-fastening said liner about the periphery or" said recess and the adjacent rear edge of said portion, the above steps being performed before the leg portions are united, bringing said leg portions face to face with said recesses in congruency, stitching said leg portions together by a longitudinal seam that intersects the bottoms of said recesses at an intermediate point forming free margins, folding said margins flat against the respective liners and securing them fiat by stitching to the material that they overlap in said waistband.

2. The method of constructing trousers of the type which includes right and left leg portions having their juxtaposed rear longitudinal margins united in a seam, comprising notching the upper rear corners of the ,face materiai of each leg portion within the waistband zone, to form similar recesses, each extending a substantial disv'from the rear edge of said face material said waistband zone constituting the upper part A'of .said leg portion, securing a liner to the inner side of the face material of each leg portion in the waistband zone, co-extensive throughout its area with said zone, stitch-fastening said liner about the periphery of said recess and the adjacent rear edge of said portion, the above steps being performed before the portions are united, bringing said trouser portions face to face with said recesses in congruency, stitching said portions togetherby a longitudinal seam that intersects the bottoms of said recesses at an intermediate point forming free margins and folding said margins flat against the respective liners.

3. Trousers comprising right and left leg portions, each of said leg portions being provided with a waistband section, said waistband section being secured to and co-extensive throughout its area with the upper part of said leg portion, said upper part constituting a waist band zone, said leg portions including said waist band zones and said waist band sections being united in the rear by a longitudinal line of stitching at a distance from the adjacent, rear lateral edges thereof to provide marginal extensions, said line of stitching and said marginal extensions terminating within the waistband zones at a distance from the top edges of said leg portions, said marginal extensions being folded back flat yagainst said leg portions. y

4. Trousers comprising right and left leg portions, each of saidrleg portions being provided with a waistband section, said waistband section being secured to and co-extensive throughout its area with the upper part of said leg portion, said upper part constituting a waistband zone, said leg portions including said waist band zones and said waist band sections being united in the rear by a longitudinal line of stitching at a distance from the adjacent, rear lateral edges thereof to provide marginalextensions, said line of stitching and said marginal extensions terminating within the waistband Zones at a distance from the top edges of said leg portions, said marginal extensions being folded back flat against said leg portions, and a notch indenting the top edge of the joined trousers in the medial line of the back of said trousers, said longitudinal line of stitching terminating at the bottom of said notch.

5. Trousers comprising right and left leg portions,reach of said leg portions being provided with a waistband section, said waistband section being secured to and coextensive throughout its area with the upper part of said leg portion, said upper part constituting a waist band zone, said leg portions including said waist band Zones and said waist band sections being united in the rear by a longitudinal line of stitching at a distance from the adjacent, rear lateral edges thereof to provide marginal extensions, said line of stitching and said marginal extensions terminating within the waistband zones at a distance from the top edges of saidleg portions, said marginal extensions being folded back flat against said leg portions and being secured by stitching to the material that they overlap, and a substantially V-shaped notch indenting the top edge of the joined trousers in the medial line of the back of said trousers, said longitudinal line of stitching terminating at the bottom of said notch.

6. Trousers comprising right and left leg por- 'I with a waistband section, said waistband section being secured to and coextens'ive throughout its area with the upper part of said leg portion, said upper part constituting a waist band zone, said leg portions including said waist band zones and said waist band sections being united in the rear .by a longitudinal line of stitching at a distance from the adjacent, rear lateral edges thereof to provide vmarginal extensions, said line of stitching and said marginal extensions terminating within the waistband zones at a distance from the top edges of said leg portions, said marginal extensions being folded back flat against said leg portions and being secured by stitching to the material that they overlap, and a .substantially U-shaped notch indenting the topY edge of the joined trousers in the medial line of the back of said trousers, said longitudinal line of stitching terminating at the bottom of said notch.

7. The method of constructingtrousers of the v type which includes right and left leg portions v the face material of each leg portion in the waist band zone coextensive throughout its area with said waist band Zone, securing said waist band section about the periphery of said recess and the adjacent rear edge of said leg portion, the above steps being performed before the leg portions are united, bringing said leg portions face to face withsaid recesses in congruency, stitching said portions together in a longitudinal seam that intersects the bottoms of said recesses forming free margins, and folding said said leg` portions.'

8. Trousers comprising right and left leg portions, each of said leg portions being provided ywith'a waist band section, said waist bandA section being secured to and co-extensive throughout its area with the inner side of the upper part of said leg portion, said upper part constituting a waist band zone, said leg portions, including said waist band zones and said waist band sections, being united in the rear by a longitudinal line of stitching at a distance from the adjacent, rear lateral edges thereof to provide marginal extensions, said line of stitching and said marginal extensions terminating within the waist band zones at a distance from the top edge of said leg portions, said marginal extensions being folded back flat against said leg portions.

IRVING I. LEVINE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,384,609 Goldstein July 12, 1921 1,396,181 Friedman Nov. 8, 1921 1,568,329 Greenberg' Jan. 5, 1926 1,810,150

Todes June 16, 1931 margins 'flat against 

